What is preferred? Any hints will be welcomed. When everything is adjust correctly should the levers rest on the stops on the floor plate? Before I started this project the right one did not and the left one ( the left side needed the pressure plate adjusted) did. When pushing, and hitting a rock or root, the machine will stop and the tracks will not spin. Am I correct to assume that any hand held lever pump grease gun is safe to use? I assume it is just a matter of pumping a lot of grease into the hydraulic track adjusters.Īre there any special hints that I should be aware of in adjusting the steering clutch and brake? The service manual lists a detailed procedure. Complete Steering Clutch Kit Fits John Deere Crawler Dozer 350 & 350B. Home Machine Type Dozer John Deere 350 Sort By: 6S3419: TRACK NUT M12 X 1 (TZ1) 1.18 Add to Cart 616191C1: TRACK BOLT M12 X 1 X 40 (TZ1) 1.22 Add to Cart T21315T: Steering Clutch Disc (TZ2) 23.87 Add to Cart ID626: S/F RLR GRP 350 (TZ1) 196.62 Add to Cart T20790: Steering Clutch Disc (TZ2) 21. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items. The service manual makes a big deal about using a low pressure grease gun (like the one that came with the crawler, who knows where and when) rather than a high pressure gun. Get the best deals for john deere 350 dozer at. Now it is all buttoned up and I think all I have yet to do is adjust the track and adjust the clutch and brake. Put the final drive back in this afternoon. Picked up a drawing of the JD7 gauge from the local JD yellow shop and made one out of plastic. I pulled the left final drive and sure enough the pressure plate fingers were way out. Some early 350s use a spring-dampened drive-disk that can break, and 350s also sometimes lose the splines on the reverser output shaft and transmission input shaft - but those sorts of maladys are usually a "go" or "no go" situation, and not slipping.In my first post last week I mentioned the steering/power transmission problem. If the ring-gear is still moving, then you know for sure that the steering clutches are slipping. It's unlikely that your reverser is slipping -but you can check by looking at your ring-gear when the machines stops. Reverser can use any good combination hydraulic/transmission oil. One is for lube/release pressure - should be around 20-30 PSI all the time, and the other is main clutch pressure - 120 PSI and up. There are two test ports with 1/8" plugs on top of the control valve. When the 350C series came out - with hydraulic steering clutches for the first time - the reverser pressure was jacked up to 150 PSI since the same oil that runs the reverser clutches also runs the steering clutches - and the steering clutches will slip at 120 PSI. A grease-gun hose attached to a gauge will work fine (with 1/8" male pipe thread. The clutch pressure should be at least 120 PSI with a dry-steering clutch machine. was handing out for awhile to shop grease-monkeys who suceeded in fixing a problem that their field engineers had not yet figured out. In case you're wondering, that's a bogus little award Deere Co. In fact, Deere Company - from our Syracuse headquarters gave me the "Golden Belt-Buckle" award at the time for fixing a few of them. I cannot remember if we shortened it by a few threads, or lenghtened it - but I'm pretty sure we shortened it. It's a threaded bolt and nut and determines the length of stroke of the accumulator piston travel. Ended up we fixed many of them by changing the length of the stop-bolt inside the shift accumlator. As standard procedure, we'd increase the rate-of-shift to a point where a full-throttle forward-to-reverse shift could almost break your neck. We tore several down and could see nothing wrong with them. We also had what seemed to be the same problem with MANY 350Cs when they were brand-new. It often appeared to be caused by every sealing area being generally worn out. I can say that we had similar "sticking" problems in the older 1010 and early 350 reversers with metal rings, and also in the later or updated reversers with mostly rubber rings. Can't say I've ever been inside a reverser when it was running to witness the problem, however. We had suspicions along the same line whenever we got a reverser with the problem as you describe it.
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